vendredi 31 août 2012
samedi 18 août 2012
Two podcasts
Dear Friends
Two new podcasts at : http://podcast.agroparistech.fr/users/gastronomiemoleculaire/weblog/f0e13/How_much_mayonnaise_sauce_can_you_make_from_only_one_egg.html (version longue)
http://podcast.agroparistech.fr/users/gastronomiemoleculaire/weblog/4fef7/How_much_mayonnaise_sauce_can_you_make_from_only_one_egg.html
(version courte)
The short one is to give the result, and the long one wants to teach calculus and Maple use at the same time
Cheers, celebrate Chemistry !
Two new podcasts at : http://podcast.agroparistech.fr/users/gastronomiemoleculaire/weblog/f0e13/How_much_mayonnaise_sauce_can_you_make_from_only_one_egg.html (version longue)
http://podcast.agroparistech.fr/users/gastronomiemoleculaire/weblog/4fef7/How_much_mayonnaise_sauce_can_you_make_from_only_one_egg.html
(version courte)
The short one is to give the result, and the long one wants to teach calculus and Maple use at the same time
Cheers, celebrate Chemistry !
samedi 4 août 2012
Note by note cuisine: an explanation
Some friends ask me about Note by Note Cuisine, and here are some explanations, before the publication of the book on Note By Note Cuisine, by Columbia University Press (publication due end of September)
From
Molecular Gastronomy to its applications :
« Molecular Cuisine » (it is over)
and
« Note by Note Cuisine» (don't miss this next world culinary
trend!)
Hervé
This
1.
The scientific work
In
1988 Nicholas Kurti and I created the scientific
discipline that we called « Molecular
gastronomy»
(remember that the word « gastronomy »
means « knowledge », and not cuisine,
even haute cuisine ; in the same way, Molecular Gastronomy does
not stand for cooking!).
The aim of Molecular Gastronomy was, is and will be forever : looking for the mechanisms of phenomena occcuring during dish preparation and consumption.
The aim of Molecular Gastronomy was, is and will be forever : looking for the mechanisms of phenomena occcuring during dish preparation and consumption.
2.
An application in the kitchen
In
the beginning of the 80's, we introduced also «Molecular
Cuisine », whose
definition is :
« Producing food (this is
cuisine) using « new » tools, ingredients, methods ».
In this definition, the word « new »
stands for what was not in kitchens of the western countries in 1980.
For example : siphon (to make
foams), sodium alginate (to get pearls with a liquid core,
spaghettis of vegetables, etc.) and other gelling agents (agar-agar,
carraghenans, etc.), liquid nitrogen (to make sherbets and many
other innovative preparations), rotary evaporator, and more
generally, the whole set of lab's equipment when they can be useful ;
another of new « method », finally, the prepration of the
Chocolate Chantilly, of beaumés, gibbs, nollet, vauquelins, etc.
( Cours de gastronomie moléculaire n°1 : Science,
technologie, technique (culinaires) : quelles relations ?,
Ed Quae/Belin)
Of course all these items are not
completely new (many gelling agents are used in Asia for millenia,
and many tools are used daily in chemistry labs), but the goal was to
modernize the technical component of cuisine.
Yes, the expression « Molecular
Cuisine » is poorly chosen, but it had to be introduced at some
time... and it is not within the Encyclopedia Britannica Dictionnaly.
And Molecular Cuisine will disappear... because of... see below !
- The next culinary trend : Note by Note Cuisine !
The next proposal is much more
exciting, and its name is NOTE BY NOTE CUISINE.
It was first proposed in 1994 (in the
magazine Scientific American) at a time when I was playing at
using compounds in food, such as paraethylphenol in wines and
whiskeys, 1-octen-3-ol in dishes, limonene, tartaric acid, ascorbic
acid, etc.
The initial proposal was to improve
food... but the next idea was obvious, it is to make dishes
entirely from compounds.
Let's say it differently. Note by Note
Cuisine is not using meat, fish, vegetable or fruits, but rater
compounds, either pure compounds or mixtures, such as electronic
music is not using trumpets or violins, but rather pure waves which
are mixed in sounds and in music.
Here, for Note by Note Cuisine, the cook has to : :
Here, for Note by Note Cuisine, the cook has to : :
- design the shapes of the various parts of the dish
- design the colors
- design the tastes
- design the odors
- design the temperatures
- designe the trigeminal stimulation
- design the consistencies
- design the nutritional aspects
- etc.
The feasability of this new cuisine was
already shown by many meals :
- first Note by Note meal (called Note by Note N°1) shown to the international press in Hong Kong by Pierre Gagnaire in April 2009
- two dishes shown at the French-Japanese Scientific Meeting (JSTS) in Strasbourg, in May 2010
- whole Note by Note Meal served by the chefs of the Cordon bleu School in Paris in October 2010
- Note à Note meal served the 26th of January 2011, as a launching event of the International Year of Chemistry, at UNESCO, Paris, by the team of Potel&Chabot
- Note by Note cocktail serve in April 2011 to 500 French chefs freshly starred at Michelin, in Espace Cardin, Paris
- Note by Note Meal served in October 2011 by the team of the chefs of the Cordon bleu Schools Paris
- Note by Note dishes made by chefs of the Toques Blanches International Association, in Paris, 3 Decembre 2011
Many questions arise from this new
cuisine:
- land development
- economy
- sensorial
- technique
- art
- politics
- nutrition
- toxicology
- etc.
But:
- humankind is facing an energy crisis : it is not sure that traditional cuisine is sustainable (it is not!)
- the New will always beat the Old
- cracking products from agriculture and farming is already done for milk and wheat ; why not carrots, apples, etc. ?
- The objections made to Note by Note cuisine were done half a century ago against electronic music, and guess what you hear at the radio today ?
In other words, are not
we at the equivalent of 1947, when musicians such as Varèse and
some others were investigating electronic music ?
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